Driving into Chamonix was simply spectacular, and it was such fun to see the mountains in the winter time after summers of watching melting snow. There are mountains on both sides of the road, and it’s hard to know where to focus.

From the highway, with a wide angle lens

The first thing that struck us was how much colder it was, and after lunch we put on long underwear…a really good idea. The trip up the train was crowded and fast, and after passing the ski area, we began to notice that many of the pine trees seemed to be in distress. Is it the result of acid rain or something else?

Chamonix

Downtown Chamonix

Sick pine trees

At the top, the views are breathtaking, but the glacier has been shrinking drastically in my lifetime. The first time I visited the Mer de Glace was in 1966.  From the top, looking down, it’s obviously reduced in size. After checking out the top spot and all the vistas, we descended on the tele cabine, and then began the 350 step descent to the bottom. I secretly laughed at the people passing on their way up who seemed to be panting.  There were people carrying their dogs in arms. It wouldn’t have been easy with Lester and Earl, golden retrievers, but little poofy French dogs do well being carried. Still, while missing Bella, the wonderful wonder dog, we were glad that she as at home visiting her friend Phoebe.

Looking down from the top

Another family portrait

Summit

Previous line of the glacier

Climbers

Entrance to the cave

At the bottom (it takes some time to climb down 350 steps) we realized that we would have to hurry in the glacier caves, since the last ascent of the tele cabine is at 4:00, and it was then 3:30, with 350 steps to climb first.

The color show inside the glacier is fast paced and I was so happy to have a camera that can shoot at 5000 ISO. There is an ice fireplace, and  a polar bear sculpture, and I admired the guy taking pictures using his tripod. I certainly didn’t envy him his trip back up those steps.

In the cave

Polar bear sculpture

Light at the end of the tunnel

All too soon, it was time to leave so as not to be stranded on the mountain. As you can imagine, the trip up, with snow, cold and camera gear was difficult, yet exhilarating.

At the risk of sounding political, it is truly frightening to see what has become of the Mer de Glace in my lifetime. It is still awe inspiring, but there is something funereal about signs we saw along the way: the lack of very much snow, the sick pine trees and the glacier itself.

It all began with a rushed driving trip from Winston-Salem to Dulles Airport in Washington, D.C. despite all kinds of weather warnings. As it worked out, the blizzard hit the east coast within hours of our departure.  Whew!

Geneva was really cold when we landed, and we found about three inches of snow in France when we arrived at our fantastic house, complete with beautiful Christmas decorations and wonderful dog, Bella. It had always been lonely on trips before without a resident canine, so we’ve been in heaven with a small bed/ lap dog. We’re cozily settled in with a fire in the fireplace, but alas, probably no skiing.

Savoy cabbage

Snowy scene

Annecy shopping

Romanian cabbage

Swans of Annecy

Purple Christmas lights in Annecy

More purple lights

Lac d'Annecy

Buche de Noel

Sunrise at home

Bella, wonder dog